If you’re one of those readers of our Blog that just looks at the pictures (I know you’re out there), then this one’s for you.

I just can’t describe how utterly stunning the colours are here in Esperance. I thought we had seen some cool beaches so far, but this is, as mentioned in this post’s title, exceptional.

My camera just doesn’t know what to do! I have actually adjusted the colour a little because the turquoise ocean makes the sky go purple.

Esperance is just a great place to explore. It sits next to the 105 islands of the Recherche Archipelago – the largest group of islands in southern Australia, which makes the picturesque photos even more picturesque. It is surrounded by National Parks – Cape Le Grande NP, Cape Arid NP, Fitzgerald River NP and three others!

I thought I’d put this photo of Ferg and Harry in. I took it last night at Munglinup Beach. After dinner we were looking through our photos from the start of our trip in June. I can’t believe how much they have grown.

Here’s how we started – Day One.

We drove into Esperance in fair dinkum sunshine. I pulled the shorts out of the trailer and stowed the hot water bottle. With my fingers crossed.

Esperance takes its name from the French ship that explored this coast, together with the Recherche. Their countryman, Baudin, mapped this coast and named many places at about the same time as Matthew Flinders. They actually met each other in the process! Hence, many of the place names at this end of Western Australia’s coastline are French: Esperance, D’Entrecasteaux, Nuytsland cliffs (I think that’s French) whilst further along, Flinders laid claim to the naming of many places. The indigenous name for Esperance is Kepa Kurl meaning water boomerang referring to the shape of the bay.

We drove around the loop they call the Great Ocean Drive (sound familiar?) which showcases the beautiful beaches on the west side of the township. John remarked on what an exceptional road riding this circuit would be – rivalling our own local Torquay to Lorne outing. I certainly don’t remember Esperance looking this good when I was last here, but I think it was raining. Hil and Al – do you remember?

The boys stopped in for a surf at Twilight beach.

Tube ride for John

And here’s Ferg….

Harry caught some good waves, but I wasn’t quick enough to catch it on camera. I did get this contemplative shot of him after he left the water.

Harry at Twilight Beach

He had a great ride in. He was pretty pleased about that.

Harry

We also drove past the Pink Lake. Now this is the same deal as the pink lake we saw just near Geraldton – where the algae in the water produces beta carotene which makes it go pink. However, a storm here a few years ago flushed the algae out and it’s not pink anymore, but they haven’t changed the name. That’s kind of funny actually. There’s even a road called Pink Lake Road, despite the fact that the lake isn’t pink anymore. Well, I’m having a chuckle, even if you’re not.

Before leaving Albany, we treated ourselves to breakfast at a café I remember well from the time we had an adventure race down this way in 2009. Sam – you’ll remember the one I mean. The man who owns the café used to live in Jan Juc, and I knew his lovely mum in her final years. He knew John from competing against him way back. More small world stuff.

The wind got nasty so the boys abandoned the proposed paddle to Nanarup, and instead we looked at the Princess Royal Fortress built in 1893 on Mt.Adelaide.

It was from here that troops left for Gallipoli and many other campaigns. There is a memorable photo there of hundreds of Australian troops sitting on one of the pyramids in Egypt. They cover at least a dozen of the huge steps. When you see the marginal country further east in the soldier settlements they were given on their return home, it seems a poor reward for their time fighting for King and country.

We left the last major centre we will see in Western Australia with a full pantry and tanks of fuel. Note: it wasn’t raining. We’re hoping we don’t see “100% chance of rain” on the forecast again.

It’s 477km to Esperance from here, but we’re going to see if we can get in to Fitzgerald National Park on the way. A lot of the roads are closed after all the rain.

We arrived in Bremer Bay, population 250, and marvelled at the clear blue water and white beaches. Too bad the sand was being blown away by the wind. We crossed the Bremer River mouth through the sand and attempted to get to Doubtful Island Bay, but it wasn’t to be. The road was either a sea of water or otherwise corrugated. It was after 5pm, and not a good time to get bogged. We retreated back to Bremer Bay and enjoyed their carpet of green grass. And their showers.

I think I’ve mentioned my passion for wind turbines gently turning in the wind. A breezy old spot like Albany is making the most of this form of energy with a large number of turbines along the coast. Each blade is 35m long and the tower is 65m high. That means it’s 100m to the top of the top blade!

We were here near dusk and this time I took the best sunset photo…..

As we left the coast to drive back into Albany township, I took the photo below of the Southern Ocean.

The funny thing is that when we got back into the harbour, the water had glassed off. Perfect for water skiing! You don’t see that in Albany too often.

Lastly, today’s wildflower is Bacon and Eggs or Nemcia capitata. I saw this in the track to The Gap and actually had one in my garden until recently. It got out of control and it never flowered this well. Perhaps I’ll try again now that I know how good it can look.

Bacon and Eggs

Down south, the coast is remarkably different to other parts of WA. The water is a beautiful turquoise blue with the whitest sand and around this neck of the woods, there are huge domes of granite boulders added to the mix.

Shelley Beach

Shelley Beach (above) is on West Cape Howe. You can camp here – when the weather is better.

Shelley Beach. Again.

You get two photos of this, just because it’s so picturesque.

Before you know it, you’ve arrived in Albany. This is a major centre in the south, and was the first European settlement in Western Australia in 1826. The harbour is magnificent and welcomes huge ships though its narrow channel. There’s an inlet off the harbour for even more protected waters. The historic waterfront has a seafaring history and the town then degenerates into a sprawling metropolis of about 25,000.

Skirting the town is the Torndirrup National Park with a windblown, surf lashed, rocky coastline where you find some cool natural features. There’s the obligatory Blow Holes, but more spectacular is The Gap and Natural Bridge.

Natural Bridge

Note the exciting lack of rain today.

Fergus and Harry named this one Bum Rock.

Apart from a rugged coastline, Albany is also famous for its whaling history. The population of both southern sperm and humpback whales was decimated after 26 years of hunting at the Albany whaling station. It seems sweet justice that the whales swim past the slaughter deck within harpoon shot as the tourists ogle at these majestic animals. Since closing in 1978, the old whaling station has turned around and become a major attraction and museum of the history of the town. The place has been left virtually as it was when it closed, and they have one of the old whale chasers on display too.

Whale Chaser Cheynes IV

There were some Japanese people on our tour, and I wonder what they thought of what we saw. It certainly was a barbaric style of killing they employed.

This is the skeleton of a pygmy blue whale they have on display. It’s much bigger than the ones they used to hunt.