It looked like a nice day at the start. In fact it was a nice day. John and Fergus had a surf back at Hellfire Bay at first light. After breakfast we went east, to Wharton. This is a town that was gazetted in 1967, but actually has just a caravan park. So far. But it looked like a nice caravan park. Maybe one day someone will build something else.

Unfortunately, by the time we arrived here for a day of diving, surfing and baking on the beach, the wind had changed, amped up to Storm Force and the rain set in. There’s no reception out here, so we couldn’t check the forecast.

Little Wharton Beach – note the sand being blown across the beach

We peeked around every corner and investigated every sandy track for all beach options, all to no avail. So after a couple of hours invested in the excursion, we came away with nothing. Not even any bread from the shop at the Wharton caravan park. They were shut.

Back at camp, we regrouped over soup and no bread. The weather was still bleak.

John had faith in a break in the weather (!) and decided it would be good for a dive in the lea of Missisippi Point, back at Rossiter Bay, the next bay to the east from our Lucky Bay. So he and Harry drove back there, while Ferg and I walked there – along the beautiful Lucky Bay beach and over the headland. We saw another of the threatened Oyster Catcher birds. They are quite remarkable, with their long red beaks.

Oyster Catcher

Turns out, the dive was worthwhile. We had four abalones cooked in garlic seasoning for entrée, and then four banded sweep and one magpie perch for main course. Harry had his first try at shooting the spear gun, and ‘nearly’ got a fish of his own. Only a matter of time.

It’s turned cold and we’re all back in long legs and down jackets. And we know now that yesterday was indeed a Lucky Day in Lucky Bay – when it comes to weather.

Lucky Bay got its name from Matthew Flinders who sheltered from a storm here on his circumnavigation of Australia. I wonder if he woke to a nice sunny day after his storm, because we did!

We started with pancakes (thanks to the boys for cooking) and then headed around to Hellfire Bay for a paddle.

Hellfire Bay

John had done his early morning reconnaissance by bike as usual and had a plan for a paddle of about 8km back to our camp at Lucky Bay.

Leaving Hellfire Bay

I walked around the point along very scenic track, swamped by more wildflowers in bloom to Little Hellfire Bay, but they had already passed by.

I met them back at Lucky Bay, after a bit more than an hour. John was upper impressed and rates it as one of the best paddles in Australia for its diversity of scenery, spectacular coast and many picture perfect beaches. Here’s a pic of them (they’re just a spec actually) heading around the point to land.

Paddling into Lucky Bay

Back to camp and time for a home brew coffee (10/10).

Next up on our Lucky Day was a hike up Frenchman Peak. This is an outstanding peak on the horizon.

Frenchman Peak

We had a handicapped race to the top. I’d rather not divulge my personal time off scratch, but suffice to say it should have been longer. John bounded up and caught the boys at the top. They say they were there first.

The view was 360 degrees of Wow! Here’s just one snippet of our reward:

That’s Lucky Bay on the left and Thistle Cove to the right

Yet another great wildflower trail getting back to the car. Today’s pick is one of the many varieties of smoke bush.

Next up was a surf at the far end of Lucky Bay.

Lucky Bay. Pretty cool beach.

Our camp is just to the right of the photo, and we drove along the beach to the far end. I even had a bake in the sun. Can you believe it was a bathers day right after yesterday’s storm? The boys persevered in a fickle shore break.

Ferg on a wave

After that, we jammed in a quick trip to Thistle Cove for another “wow” beach where we saw this beautiful Oyster Catcher – a threatened species – and a few lizards. The fauna quota needed a boost.

And then we had run out of daytime.

There’s a song I know with a line about a “gathering storm”. It’s a slow and gentle song, with a subtle hint that this is the calm before the storm. That’s how it was as we started our ‘beach run’. This is where you use the beach for a road.

We left Esperance for Cape Le Grande. By driving along the beach for 20km, it saves doing over 50km on the road. It started out sunny (had been all day), but out the back window, it didn’t look so flash.

We managed 10km before having to let the tyres down. This happens a lot faster with the whole team on the job.

The storm came in to shore and lashed the coast for the final 5km. We got sandblasted.

And just in case you’re wondering – it was an outgoing tide.

The camping ground here at Lucky Bay (a somewhat cheesy name) is not very nice. Essentially, it’s like camping in a car park. In fact it’s just like the three tier car park in Jan Juc, for those local readers – only with a dirt surface. Every guide, article or tourist brochure says this beach has the whitest sand in Australia. Well that’s your ticket to a full camping ground. Gotta see that. The showers (2) are solar heated – so I was pleased that the sun shone brightly before the storm hit. On a brighter note, the locals here are the kangaroos – together with joeys.

Where did he go?

Tonight was the preliminary final between Geelong and Hawthorn. Now most of the number plates in the camping ground were from the eastern states, and there were many radios tuned to the match – including ours. There were lots of cheers and boos throughout the match coming from the various groups gathered to listen. Our tent had sad faces after the game.

If you’re one of those readers of our Blog that just looks at the pictures (I know you’re out there), then this one’s for you.

I just can’t describe how utterly stunning the colours are here in Esperance. I thought we had seen some cool beaches so far, but this is, as mentioned in this post’s title, exceptional.

My camera just doesn’t know what to do! I have actually adjusted the colour a little because the turquoise ocean makes the sky go purple.

Esperance is just a great place to explore. It sits next to the 105 islands of the Recherche Archipelago – the largest group of islands in southern Australia, which makes the picturesque photos even more picturesque. It is surrounded by National Parks – Cape Le Grande NP, Cape Arid NP, Fitzgerald River NP and three others!

I thought I’d put this photo of Ferg and Harry in. I took it last night at Munglinup Beach. After dinner we were looking through our photos from the start of our trip in June. I can’t believe how much they have grown.

Here’s how we started – Day One.

We drove into Esperance in fair dinkum sunshine. I pulled the shorts out of the trailer and stowed the hot water bottle. With my fingers crossed.

Esperance takes its name from the French ship that explored this coast, together with the Recherche. Their countryman, Baudin, mapped this coast and named many places at about the same time as Matthew Flinders. They actually met each other in the process! Hence, many of the place names at this end of Western Australia’s coastline are French: Esperance, D’Entrecasteaux, Nuytsland cliffs (I think that’s French) whilst further along, Flinders laid claim to the naming of many places. The indigenous name for Esperance is Kepa Kurl meaning water boomerang referring to the shape of the bay.

We drove around the loop they call the Great Ocean Drive (sound familiar?) which showcases the beautiful beaches on the west side of the township. John remarked on what an exceptional road riding this circuit would be – rivalling our own local Torquay to Lorne outing. I certainly don’t remember Esperance looking this good when I was last here, but I think it was raining. Hil and Al – do you remember?

The boys stopped in for a surf at Twilight beach.

Tube ride for John

And here’s Ferg….

Harry caught some good waves, but I wasn’t quick enough to catch it on camera. I did get this contemplative shot of him after he left the water.

Harry at Twilight Beach

He had a great ride in. He was pretty pleased about that.

Harry

We also drove past the Pink Lake. Now this is the same deal as the pink lake we saw just near Geraldton – where the algae in the water produces beta carotene which makes it go pink. However, a storm here a few years ago flushed the algae out and it’s not pink anymore, but they haven’t changed the name. That’s kind of funny actually. There’s even a road called Pink Lake Road, despite the fact that the lake isn’t pink anymore. Well, I’m having a chuckle, even if you’re not.