Townsville is our last stop for this trip, and we were hoping that the weather would perk up after the dismal skies over Mission Beach yesterday. What we hadn’t planned for was the V8 Super Car race this weekend – right here in Townsville. Peachy. At least that might keep the numbers down everywhere else! We had an “end of trip” dinner out where Fergus managed an enormous plate of rump and ribs, while Harry downed the seafood platter.

Next morning the sun was shining, the wind dropped off and we headed off to Magnetic Island. John paddled the kayak while the boys and I went on the ferry. It’s about 10km off the coast and has a resident population of about 3000.

View of Townsville from the ferry to Magnetic Island.

That big hill is Castle Hill and dominates the Townsville skyline. But for now – we’re heading off shore.

Magnetic Island is a really laid back and peaceful place. There’s a Peppers Resort and some other apartment type buildings, but the rest is relaxed and easy going. There’s one road along the south east side of the island that covers about four beaches and then the rest is inaccessible by car. You can sail around to some other beaches – if you have your yacht handy.

Arcadia Beach with the tide coming in.

The boys snorkelled around the point in the photo above from the previous beach. There’s a wreck there, but visibility was average. They did see a turtle, and Harry hitched a ride. You can rely on Harry. I spied one of the many Rock Wallabies that hang out in the boulder strewn shoreline.

Rock Wallaby on Magnetic Island

There’s not a lot of road, but it is handy to have a car to get around. We tried to get a Mini Moke but they were all booked out. We ended up with this buzz box in the photo below.

Fergus at the wheel

If this is the high season, and also the school holidays, I can’t imagine how quiet it is in the low season.

We checked out every beach and loved the granite rocks and views.

At Geoffrey Bay, Magnetic Island

Harry – always finds a way to make me worry.

On our way back from the reef, we were powering along when we all noticed the unmistakable spray from a whale’s blow hole. In fact there were many. We changed course and came across at least eight humpback whales heading north.

Humpback whales off Mission Beach

We stayed there at least half an hour enjoying watching the antics of the pod. They even did that thing where they rise straight up out of the water and then flop down with a big splash. Just couldn’t catch it in a photo. They drifted closer and closer to our rubber boat – much closer than I’ve ever seen a whale. You could even see the eye on one.

Humpback whales off Mission Beach

There were only seven of us on the boat and we all felt really privileged to hang out with them.

Great Barrier Reef

We missed the reef diving trips at Cairns and Cape Tribulation, so took the opportunity here at Mission Beach to show the boys the Great Barrier Reef.

Harry

It was yucky weather on the surface, but the swell was manageable and the visibility below was okay. We saw some amazing coral and fish and some giant clams. John pretended to get his hand stuck in one. He thought it was funny, but we (novices) did not.

It was an amazing dive (three actually) and only 45 minutes from Mission Beach. We haven’t agreed on which is better: Great Barrier Reef or Ningaloo Reef on the west coast. Perhaps we should visit there again to refresh our memories!

Cyclone Yasi in 2011 was one hell of a hit to this part of Queensland. One of the strongest cyclones recorded, it crossed the coast right here at Mission Beach and the eye of the cyclone continued through to Tully. This is the reason for so many of the buildings in Tully being fairly newly built. As is the case in Mission Beach. This is a beautiful piece of coast, with houses built right on the beach front. No wonder they all look so new. They are mostly post-Yasi built. It made me wonder what the insurance premiums are like up here.

The weather gods have frowned on us today, and my tan will continue to be a shining light in the Sun Sense campaign. John and the boys boarded the kayak and headed to Dunk Island, four kilometres off the coast. I took the water taxi from the next beach up the coast (Wangilong) – but they omitted to tell the passengers they had to wade through thigh deep water (for tall people) to reach the boat, but hey, I’ll dry out.

Dunk Island used to be a resort Island, but was pretty much ruined by Cyclone Yasi.

Dunk Island Resort. Holiday anyone?

A mining magnate millionaire, Peter Bond, bought the private property part of the island (the rest is National Park) and has refurbished a few units for his family and friends. I hear they have big parties here. They also maintain the airstrip and allow the public to use the walking tracks outside the private property. So we wandered along the beach on a grim day that threatened rain, only delivering a light shower.

The jetty at Dunk Island looking back to Mission Beach on the mainland

The boys had a great time building stone cairns. I have to put both their photos up – or suffer the consequences.

Fergus counted 20 stones in his best. This one was an early attempt.

Harry’s cairn – a slender structure.

We indulged in a reef and beef burger stack for lunch at the café that operates out of a container on the spit here. Big feed.

The demise of Dunk Island as a functioning resort has a huge effect on Mission Beach. This is the peak of the tourist season in this region – but you’d never know it. There’s a lot of For Sale signs around here.

The cassowary is an endangered bird found (so long as they haven’t become extinct) in the region from Townsville north to Cardwell. They call it the Cassowary Coast. Like they’re everywhere. The cassowary was supposed to be likely to be sighted on the 10km walk I did through the forest round the back of Mission Beach while the boys went on a bike ride through the same area. Remembering of course not to stop for more than a few seconds (no joke) or the mozzies will start their feast. Not a cassowary to be seen. So, back at the camping ground, where there’s plenty of humanity, out pops a cassowary and its chick. Then comes the dad, who wanders through everyone’s tent and trailer. What a treat!

Cassowary at Mission Beach