This is another Post to put the kettle on for – so much to say!
Poking off the coast of Western Australia is a peninsula comprising Cape Range National Park, the town of Exmouth, and the World Heritage Ningaloo Reef. If you’re into diving, fishing or surfing, you will know Exmouth and this beautiful coast well. If you’re not, you better come and see what all the fuss is about.
History lesson first. Exmouth Gulf was named by Captain Philip Parker King. He’s the bloke who named the Alligator Rivers (South, North and East) in the Northern Territory when he saw all the crocs there. Accuracy isn’t a strong point for him.
There was a secret base here in World War 2, and then the US and Australian Governments built the Communications Station here in the early 60s. The town itself was built to service the Station and declared a Township about 1967. That makes it younger than me!
The Americans left town in the 90s, taking their left hand drive cars with them. The base still plays a role in the security of the Australian submarine fleet. The central tower at the base dominates the landscape, and is the second highest manmade structure (387.6m) in the southern hemisphere. Well, it was when the book I read that in was printed.

So there’s your manmade feature. Now for the good stuff. The Ningaloo Reef just knocks your socks off. It’s World Heritage Listed as a “superlative natural phenomena of exceptional natural beauty”. There’s the landscape, which is quite desolate, contrasting with the white sand and turquoise water of the reef. The pristine reef is one of the world’s longest fringing reefs, sometimes only 100m from shore. The marine life is diverse with hundreds of species of fish and coral. And of course there’s the mega marine life of whales, whale sharks, dugongs, sharks, turtles, manta rays and dolphins.
Basically, this is a great (read: exceptionally fantastic) place.
We snorkelled at the appropriately named Turquoise Beach. Captain King obviously didn’t name this.

The fish were so colourful – like the Preps kids had painted them as bright as can be! The coral was varied and extensive. The current drags you along the reef right next to the beach. We loved it and could have stayed all day – but there’s so much else to see!
After lunch we launched the Mango (our kayak) and the boys headed north along the reef edge to dive and see more fish and coral. This was outside the Sanctuary Zone, so you’re allowed to use the spear gun here.
I stayed on the beach…….

The few people you can see in the photo above left soon after I arrived, so I had the whole beach to myself. We’re on the same latitude here as Rockhampton, or thereabouts. Can you imagine so few people on the east coast?
The boys stopped for three dives along their 8km paddle, where I picked them up just near our camping ground. They saw a sea snake or two, Spangled Emperor, turtle, Wrasse, Angle Fish, Elephant Fish, various Leatherjackets, Cowfish and heaps of aquarium type fish. Plus a White Tip Reef Shark, and stingrays.
But wait! There’s more – they speared a fish! It’s a Many Lined Sweetlip.

Not quite enough for dinner for four, so he’s in the freezer waiting for company.
We got back to camp, dropped the dive gear, grabbed the bikes and headed up to the Lighthouse. John challenged the boys to a race: John runs, Fergus and Harry ride the bikes – up the steep hill to the Lighthouse right above our camp. Who would win? (Yes, I drove the car.)

You can see the road rising up to the top of the hill. The view was enormous. I watched whales breaching just off the shore, and the plumes of spray they blow had the setting sun shine through them. Quite surreal. You can also see the reef just off shore. This place is here to be treasured.
The sunset itself wasn’t all that good, but the rising moon looked great over the Communications Towers.

I just want to put this next photo in too. It’s similar to the other lighthouse one, but also has the anchor from the wreck of the SS Mildura, lost in 1907, and the impetus for building the lighthouse. The lighthouse is now decommissioned.

Now, you’re wondering who won the race to the top, I know. So Fergus was first, about 5m behind was John, then Harry – who had an issue with gears on the way up. That’s what he told me.